When I ran into John and Steve Thornton recently, they were excited about the new Executive Chef they had hired for Café Champagne. “His life is in that kitchen,” said John. They invited me to join them for lunch so I could meet him and taste his food. We spent two hours together and I know now what they’re so excited.
Chef Alfred comes by way of the restaurant at Ponte where he was Executive Sous Chef and the Wine Cellar and Brasserie in San Diego where he served as Executive Chef. His passion for the kitchen began when he was 10 or 11 years old. “I didn’t like normal kid food like peanut butter and jelly or cereal” he told me. His parents put him in charge of making dinner every night.
He’s had no formal training. He learned by doing and watching and by “grinding in the kitchen.” He brings with him a connection with a San Diego fishmonger so he has a constant source of line caught fresh and sustainable fish. He works only with the freshest and best ingredients.
When I asked him what changes are in store for Café Champagne he replied they would be mostly technical, with a focus on assembling a great team and an emphasis on proper techniques. “Every day I get to put in hours it means I get closer to my goal of being amazing and great… and trying to get the pleasure and honor to make diners experience our vision.” He looks forward to presenting wine dinners and spontaneous “mercy of the chef” dinners.
While John and Steve and I sipped Tempranillo and Cabernet-Syrah made by Thornton’s winemaker David Vergari, we talked about the last 28 years and what lies ahead. Vergari is highly educated, holding a degree in accounting, an MBA and a degree in oenology from UC Davis. The Champagne Concert series is in full swing now, and they realize it’s an expensive proposition for their guests. They want them to leave feeling it was worth every penny.
During a five-week visit to France last year, they purchased a new production line for the Méthode Champenoise sparkling wines they produce. The current piece is nearly 40 years old and Steve realized it was just a matter of time before it failed. The new one will be far more efficient. They’re fine tuning it now. “We’ve got to get it dialed in.”
Chef Alfred, with the assistance of his Chef de Cuisine Austin Alexander who he worked with at Ponte, brought us four courses beginning with a striped sea bass on saffron beurre blanc with a chimmichurri of yellow wax beans and Haricots Verts. His plating and presentation is dazzling with vibrant colors. The fish was light and moist and perfect for the season. Next was a Pasture Bird chicken on a Yukon Gold mash with Campari tomato, Swiss chard and apple wood smoked bacon. The third course was New York strip sirloin with potato fondant, carrot emulsification and a French curry called vadouvin. He topped it all off with lemon curd with fresh berries and cookie dust. The meal was spectacular.
“We aim to put out a consistent product that people like,” said John. Their goal is to produce the highest possible quality while making it work economically. He envisions Thornton as a place where “people think in terms of being able to get excellent wines, excellent food and wonderful music in an environment and ambiance with a well-trained staff.” They are definitely succeeding on all counts.
